Week 3 adding padding to hair
In order to create an Elizabethan hairstyle I had to carry out a variety of techniques such as curling crimping and plaiting before adding rats which are form of padding to the hair.
I firstly started on half the head and took a section of hair from the front of the hair to about the temples on the face and then started to curl the sections the curls at the front of the head I generally wanted them to be tight curls in order to make pin curls to go around the front of the hair line.
I then took another section of hair bigger than the section I added the curls to as this section will have to have enough hair in order to cover the rats when it is secured to the head.
Then I French plaited a small section of hair which will act as an anchor to secure the rats to the head, in order to keep the plait in place I overplayed the end of the braid over top of the plaited section attached to the head and secured it with hair pins.
Next I added the rats to the hair which will act as the padding. The rats are easily made using tights and couch roll paper. I pierced the rats using a hair pin which is then attached it to the braid in order to hold it in place .I carried this process out several times in order to hold it in place so when styling the hair there will be no movement.
Once I secured the rats to the braid I then used the crimped piece of hair and overlaid it over top of the rats to cover it , I then tucked the ends of the hair under the rats and secured the hair in place using hair pins. If there is a large amount of hair to cover the rats this can usually be quite heavy causing it to drop and look messy, in order to make the hairstyle look overall neater and more secure its usually best to section the crimped pieces of hair into three and then pin each section to the hair .
In order to tie the whole Elizabethan look together using hair pins I pulled some of the curls over top of the crimped section of hair and then used the rest of the curls to create pin tail curls which I situated around the face on top of the hair line.
I then carried out the same process on the other half of the head. This is my finished look.
This is a side view of my finished Elizabethan look with padding used to add volume to the hair.
I found I sectioned the hair well in order to make the curls and crimped section of hair look neat and even. I found it quite difficult to secure the rats into the hair .Overall I thought the Elizabethan look I created was neat but could have included more volume perhaps by securing the rats higher into the hair, the pin tail curls also needed to be neater.
Once I had finished the design i asked Lottie her general opinion on my attempt at an Elizabethan hairstyle she thought the design was a nice idea and a good attempt.
The things i needed to focus on however, was making sure the pin tail curls were more secure around the hairline and the hair pins holding the curls in place were disguised a bit better.
experimenting with Elizabethan hairstyles using padding
I experimented with the different techniques I've learnt from previous lessons such as crimping, curling, plaiting and adding padding to the hair. to create my own interpretation of an Elizabethan hairstyle.
firstly i sectioned the hair into two and the French plaited two sections of hair at the back of the hair this will act as an anchor and secure the padding in the hair.
next I applied the padding to the French plaits using hair pins. I decided to situate the padding further back in the hair rather than closer to the front of the head due to the frizzing technique i used on the section of hair which would cover the padding would create a lot of volume and the length of the models hair was generally quite long so i was therefore able to get away with placing the padding further towards the back of the head.
On the section of hair which would be used to cover the padding I used a Geisha pin I weaved sections of hair through the pin and applied the hair straighteners over top of the weaved piece of hair I then removed the pin which left me with a zig zag curl. I then slightly brushed the zig zag curl out to create a frizzed effect which would create volume. I carried this process out until all of the hair which will be used to cover the padding was frizzed then I overplayed the section overtop of the padding and secured in place using hair pins.
Finally with my third section of hair which was a slightly smaller section, using my curlers i created pin curls which I then situated around the front of the hair line and secured in place using hair pins.
After carrying out the French plaiting, applying the padding to the hair, the zig zag curling, and the curling this was the outcome of my final Elizabethan hairstyle.
Even though my Elizabethan style did not include much volume I feel the pin tail curls look neater than my first attempt and the hair style looks neat and secure.
Research
It is noticeable that most hairstyles in the Elizabethan era were either rounded or heart shaped and pinned back off their faces. when working applying padding to the hair the main aim was to make sure the hairstyle was shaped appropriately in order look Elizabethan. The outcome of the Hairstyle also needed to be symmetrical.
anonymous. (1580). Elizabethan hairstyles. Available: http://trystancraft.com/costume/2011/07/15/elizabethan-hairstyles-1560-1600/. Last accessed 23/10/14.
anonymous. (1593). Elizabethan hairstyles. Available: http://trystancraft.com/costume/2011/07/15/elizabethan-hairstyles-1560-1600/. Last accessed 14/10/14.
The image of Emilia Bassano 1593 ( left ) highlights a prominent heart shaped heart style and the image of Queen Elizabeth 1580 (right) highlights the rounded hairstyles the Elizabethans used to wear.
I researched a few contemporary hairstyles which relate to the techniques and styles I used when creating my own interpretation of an Elizabeth an hairstyle.
Thom Browne . (2014 spring). Thom Browne New York spring 2014. Available: http://www.stylebistro.com/runway/Thom+Browne/New+York+Fashion+Week+Spring+2014/Details/BMlVeJs3WG0. Last accessed 23/10/14.
In this image from New York fashion week it is recognisable that stylist Thom Browne has used a lot of back combing to achieve the volume he has in the Image. The look is overall very Elizabethan due to Thom Brown including a red coin with pearls attached to the models hair. In Elizabethan times it is known during the era pearls and red was worn particularly to highlight wealth.
I like how Thom Browne has incorporated colour into his hair design, I also like the use of the coif in the hair which ties the whole Elizabethan look together. The colour scheme of red and white used in this overall look is also very Elizabethan.
Davis Bitton. (2010). Elizabethan age-up style. Available: http://www.hairfinder.com/hairstyles5/davis-upstyle12.htm. Last accessed 23/10/14.
Here is Another modern interpretation of the Elizabethan hairstyles this style is created by Davis Bitton . In order to create such a smooth rounded style it is possible that padding has been added underneath the hair to create such a prominent shape and volume. The look also can be considered as very Elizabethan due to the style of plaits situated across the front of the padding. According to the article, Davis Bitton aim was to keep the hair off the models face and to shape the hair to look like a coif fitted to the head in order to create an Elizabethan effect.
I like how the artist has create such a smooth speak look with the hair. I also like how Davis Bitton has used the extra piece of hair to create a coif in this style to create an Elizabethan like effect this idea is very clever.
anonymous. (unknown). unknown. Available: http://uk.pinterest.com/pin/319685273523522733/. Last accessed 23/10/14.
The image used on the front of a fashion magazine to portray the fabulous Elizabethan has many different techniques used, such as a variety of plaiting techniques and pin tail curls situated around the face. There is also a possibility that the volume achieved in this look o's gained due to the padding
I like how the artist incorporated a variety of different techniques such as them pin tail curls padding to gain the volume of the style and mainly the plaiting techniques used. The plaiting technique used is almost like a basket effect and is very effect.
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